Gardener Direct offers over 150 outstanding and unique varieties of Japanese Maple. We are testing and adding new varieties every year. Our container-grown maples are expertly grown from grafts with the utmost care. Before we offer them for sale, plants are fully rooted and well-branched in 2, 3 or 5 gallon containers. 

To determine hardiness and overall performance in the landscape, each variety of Japanese Maple has been field-tested in our trial gardens here in mid-Georgia. This means you can count on the specific information we provide about each plant.

More about Satsuki Beni Japanese Maple...

Sturdy and fast growing, Satsuki Beni is a nice addition to any garden. The Japanese name means "red month of May," even though the tree is green in May..hmm? Eyecatching lime green leaves tipped in reddish-purple emerge in spring changing to solid green during summer and then to a spectacular, brilliant orange-red in fall. Where happy, it will grow to over 10 feet tall in 10 years maxing out over time to about 25 feet in height with a 15 to 20 foot spread. 

Japanese maples stand out best when they are planted as a single specimen or in small groupings. Use them to accentuate an entryway or as a focal point to draw attention to a certain area of the landscape or home. Be careful not too overcrowd your Japanese Maple. We suggest underplanting with dwarf, low growing shrubs or groundcovers.

Culture

When provided the right environment in the landscape Japanese Maples are very easy to grow.

Soil - Japanese maples adapt well to many soil types provided there is good drainage. Consistently wet or soggy soils can be a killer.

Sun -  Some varieties will tolerate full sun. However, in their natural habitat, Japanese Maples are understory trees, growing in dappled forest sunlight and at the edges of partially shaded woodlands. Ideally they prefer to be grown in similar conditions. 

Planting Your Japanese Maple

In Ground: Dig a hole no deeper than the root ball and two to three times the width of the root ball. Fill it with water. If the hole drains within a few hours, you have good drainage. If the water is still standing 12 hours later, improve the drainage in your bed or establish a mound to plant your tree in.

Turn and break up the soil removed from the hole. If the native soil is dense or compacted amend with compost or soil amendment at a 30/70 or 50/50 ratio.

Remove your plant from its container and carefully loosen the roots around the exterior of the root ball. Set the plant into the hole you've prepared making sure the top edge of the root ball is slightly above the soil level (1/3 of the rootball above the ground if planting on level ground) to allow for settling.

When backfilling tamp as you go to remove air pockets. When planting on level ground, and your rootball is higher above the ground, taper your backfill soil mixture from the top edge of the rootball gradually towards the grade.

Water thoroughly and cover with a one- to two-inch layer of mulch. Then, during the first year or two, water as needed to ensure soil stays moist but not consistently wet.

In Containers: Pick a container that will match the mature size of your tree and that has drain holes. Use a well-draining planting or potting soil. Do not use native soil.