Dynamite Crape Myrtle
Lagerstroemia indica 'Dynamite'
Finally a crape myrtle that produces true red flowers!
The Dynamite Crape Myrtle produces an abundance of large, true red flower
clusters for up to 100 days during summer. It has an upright habit growing from 12 to 20 feet tall depending on pruning, and a broad, rounded
canopy from 8 to 16 feet wide. The dark green leaves turn
to orange and red in fall and contrast nicely with the exfoliating,
grey-brown bark.
Crape Myrtle is not picky about soil type provided the soil is well-drained. Full sun is preferred and results in heavier flower production. Light shade is tolerated but with diminished blooming.
Dynamite Crape Myrtle can be used as a stand alone specimen, in groupings, or in rows in landscape beds, medians, or foundation plantings. Can also be useful for espalier against are tall, open wall.
Attributes, Characteristics & Requirements
USDA Hardiness Zones
7a thru 9b
Size
Ht: 12-20' W: 8-12'
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Soil Type
Clay, Loam, Sandy, Silt
Soil Drainage
Well-Drained
Resistant To
Deer, Disease, Heat, Drought
| Flower Color
True Red
Seasons of Bloom
100 days during Summer
Foliage Color
Dark Green - Orange-Red in Fall
Water Needs
Average to Low
Growth Rate
Moderate to Fast
Attracts
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Landscape Usages
Dynamite
Crape Myrtle can be used as a stand alone specimen, in groupings, or in
rows in landscape beds, medians, or foundation plantings. Can also be
useful for espalier against are tall, open wall.
Care Tips for Crape Myrtle
Planting Instructions
Plant in well-drained, somewhat loose to loose soils. Consistently wet soils can be problematic, causing disease.
Feeding Instructions
Fertilize this flowering tree lightly with a well-balanced tree
fertilizer or organic plant food. Fertilize in Spring, after new growth
has emerged, and again in late Summer or early Fall.
Pruning Instructions
When a crape myrtle tree is pruned properly it will produce twice the
number of branches and blooms as it did during the previous year, and
the new branches will be strong enough to support blooms. The best time
to prune crape myrtles is a month or so before the new growth typically
begins to emerge in Spring (In zones 7,8, and 9 this is typically around
late February). How much to prune? The rule of thumb for pruning is to
start by tracing down from the top of a past years new stem, where there
may be dried seed pods from last years flowers, to a point where that
stem connects to an older branch. Cut the stem off at a point about 4-6"
above the connection (intersection of the stem and the branch). NOTE:
Do not prune below this intersection as your neighbors may do! After
pruning all of last years main stems, you may prune away all horizontal
twiggy growth along all main branches including the trunk(s). If suckers
have grown from the base of the trunk prune these away as well.
Pest and Disease
Most modern varieties of crape myrtle, particularly the 'Fauriei
Hybrids', are not prone to disease or mildew problems. Insects don't
present a serious problem either, however, there are a couple of
critters, the Japanese beetle and the honeydew aphid, which can be a
temporary nuicance. The Japanese beetle arrives in Summer and can be
easily and effectively controlled with an application of liquid Sevin
spray. If you notice, in Fall, a black "sooty mold" on the leaves of
your crape myrtle, this is usually caused by honeydew aphids leaving
behind a sticky residue that collests dirt and such. This sooty mold is
not a serious problem and will be gone with the leaves in Fall. If you
have older varieties of crape myrtle, white powdery mildew can be a
problem. Spray foliage with a fungicide to kill mildew.
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